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Suggestions on making Fronty run cooler when towing

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gararnett	Suggestions on making Fronty run cooler when towing	Lead	[-]
Posts: 1 (06/14/09 01:33 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None I have a 02 CrewCab 2x4 long bed with auto tranny. 206k miles. In general, no problems, change oil, change sparkplugs, change brakes, completely stock. Swapped the shocks 2x, now running Ranchos. Oh, truck is NOT supercharged. Had a a/c line leak and replaced it, had the left side exhaust manifold crack, replaced it. My problem is the engine getting hot when towing. I used to have an open 10x6 trailer and it would pull it anywhere, anytime, no problem, whatever I put on it. I got a 10x6 enclosed trailer now. I know, it's heavier and has more wind resistance. Truck pulls it fine, but runs significantly hotter. Can't use a/c in summer towing it at all, and is still in upper range. Truck did not come with tow package, I added a Reece class III after purchase. What are suggestions to help the engine stay cool? Oil Cooler? Tranny cooler? Bigger radiator? Looking for some help. Truck runs fine otherwise. Ran 1500 miles in the last 2 days at 75-85 the whole way with a/c on but not towing and stayed cool as can be - right were it should. Love the truck, goes all the time, never any real problems, it just goes and goes.
Mathster		#1	[-]
Posts: 4968 (06/14/09 07:10 PM) Crazy Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	external transmission cooler will help. keeps the transmission heat out of the coolant so it should help somewhat. Make sure your coolant is at the proper level and mixture. When was the last time the coolant was changed and the system flushed and cleaned? Im not sure what else to suggest. old school, I would suggest a timing adjustment. I dont know if a larger radiator is available. you might be able to find one made of aluminum instead of brass/plastic of factory. towing is towing. if you could handle 5000 pounds in an open trailer, you should be able to handle 5000 pounds in an enclosed trailer. While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
gararnett		#2	[-]
Posts: 3 (06/15/09 12:52 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Flushed last year. I'm generally old school too, thus my thought of larger rad. or oil/tranny cooler. No hoses have been changed since new, original oil & water pumps and original thermostat (heck original starter, alt and serpentine belt). Towing is towing (re: weight), but increased wind resistance does make it harder at freeway speed.
Mathster		#3	[-]
Posts: 4971 (06/15/09 08:17 PM) Crazy Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	I wouldn't think it would matter that much... I have put other compact trucks on a trailer and drove highway speeds with my truck and not overheat. I replaced my serpentine belts and hoses when I done my timing belt. Any additional coolers will help, just a matter of whats available for our trucks without having to custom build brackets, mounts, and plumbing. While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
flyingarmadillo		#4	[-]
Posts: 1580 (06/16/09 12:34 PM) Addicted Member Sept '07 TOM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Hoses will deteriorate on the inside, constrict and reduce water flow so I'd go ahead and replace the hoses. I'd also go ahead and replace the water pump, those will lose effiiciency even if the seals don't start leaking. You're about due for the second timing belt change (every 105k miles), that's a good time to do the water pump too. If you've never replaced the belts it's possible the that the belt to the water pump is slipping under increased load. One simple thing might be to take it to a DIY carwash and hose the radiator from the back. There were also reports a while back of the space between the AC and the radiator packing with debris and restricting airflow, that might be your problem. '03 SVE KC 4X4 5spd, granite, K&N dropin, foglights, Bilstein shocks, UTR bedliner, microfilter, SLR headers
gararnett		#5	[-]
Posts: 5 (06/17/09 10:16 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Back of radiator is clean/clear. BTW, still on the original timing belt. Guess I'll do some more maintenance - serpentine belt, hoses, water pump and timing belt.
Mathster		#6	[-]
Posts: 4975 (06/17/09 10:50 PM) Crazy Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	gararnett wrote: Back of radiator is clean/clear. BTW, still on the original timing belt. Guess I'll do some more maintenance - serpentine belt, hoses, water pump and timing belt. impressive... that may be part of your problem. the belt may have stretch a bit more than expected and the valve timing is running a bit off of optimal. Again, going old school, you put a degree or two of valve timing in, it makes a difference. While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
CaliFrontya		#7	[-]
Posts: 1308 (06/19/09 02:25 PM) Gold Member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	One thing to check is if your fan clutch is still good. The fan clutch will wear out over time and may be slipping, and not providing enough air flow. Also, if you have a obdII scanner handy, i would hook it up and take your truck for a drive to see when the thermostat opens up and regulates the temp to. Mine stays around 180 coasting and 192max with a load. (Supercharged). The temp gauge on our truck is not very linear, and will not register a rise past the middle until the temp gets to the 210 or so range. If your thermostat is stuck closed or partially closed, the engine will may not be able to maintain below 19x even with no load, but the airflow caused by the truck moving may be enough to help keep it below the 200s. But with a load, the airflow may not be enough to keep it cool. Our trucks have a tranny cooler shared as the bottom portion of the radiator. I have added an extra fan to the bottom right corner (when standing in front of the truck) to help cool the radiator when the A/C is on. The 2001 and older trucks actually had this fan as stock, but in 2002+ they took it off. I got a thermal switch from autozone and a J30 fan from the junkyard. My air duct temp with the A/C on is 55-58F even sitting at a stoplight in 100F outside temp. On the freeway, it sits at 55F or slightly below. I used to not get below 60F (usally sat around 65F) when at a stoplight in the same conditions. Since the placement of the fan at that location is also the point where the tranny cooler inlet is, i assume it aids in cooling the tranny as well. It you dont want to do the thermal switch hookup (mine actually has an input for the A/C signal in addition to the temp signal), you can just use a relay to have the fan turn on whenever you have the truck on.

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