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jkon |
Re: Knock Sensor Relocate 2002 Fronty ODB2 code P0328 or PO3 | ||
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Thanks guys. So with a bad knock sensor are our engines constantly running with the timing retarded? I checked my MPG this week and I am getting 19.5 MPG which I thought isn't bad. Mine is an '03 and that's what I was getting when it was brand new. I don't know what the heck to do.
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BBNissan |
Re: Knock Sensor Relocate 2002 Fronty ODB2 code P0328 or PO3 | ||
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I just have to throw my two cents in on this one...
jkon, I am a mechanical engineer for a construction equipment company and part of my primary job function is to adapt base engines into our equipment. We start with a basic engine block, heads and a valve cover but it is up to us to place all of the sensors, intake, turbo, etc. This is very similar to the approach that car manufacturers use...they have a core competency group that designs the engines and then different platforms (i.e. car models) adapt the base engines to their needs. Because of this, a sensor location on one car model should function just as well as it does on anther model as long as it reads in the proper range. Since the knock sensors are reading the exact same thing (a harmful vibration) they should be interchangeable. Also, speaking from experience from working on muffler designs and dealing with engine vibrations (mufflers are mounted directly to the engine on most construction equipment) a vibration will transfer to any other component on the engine as long as it is rigidly attached. Since the intake is rigidly attached to the engine, mounting a knock sensor in this location should work just as well as mounting it in the valley of the engine block. ----------
Check out my Truck! |
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Vycor |
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I dunno bout you guys, but the only reason id want to move the knock sensor elsewhere is so that if/when it does fail, i can do it myself by just buying the
sensor. And I don't have to have nissan pull my S/C and other stuff apart.
I don't have the tools or the know-how to pull out my supercharger and what not... so i hafta pay nissan everytime. Ive had 2 knock sensors replaced. One under warranty after fighting with them that it WAS the knock sensor, and a 2nd last year on June 4th, 2007. 25k miles later (yes I do 25k a year) and 1 year, 5 days later, my knock sensor is going again. I think. same exact problems. Trucks at nissan now to have it looked at... but they'll charge me an arm and a leg. |
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jkon |
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OK boys. Thanks. Can anyone tell me which side of the connector (the side closest to the radiator or the side closest to the firewall) in its original state
goes to the knock sensor. I pulled the connector apart and measured across the radiator side to test my knock sensor and it measured 500k ohm which is
definitely out of tolerance. Am I measuring on the correct side of the connector?
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nissanclay |
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adelphia83 wrote: I don't know if someone answered this for you, I was too lazy to read.
Without ME its just AWSO
homepage.mac.com/nissanclay |
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Mathster |
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Well, I decided today that the 1 to 2 mpg drop in fuel mileage I have been seeing over the past couple month (never really recovered from winter mileage)
wasn't just driving style.
Popped in to AZ today after work and got some young kid that tried to tell me that nothing gets stored without a CEL. I told him to scan it anyway, if there was nothing there, I would buy him a coke for his troubles. I enjoyed a coke while trying to decide if I want to do the repair or the resistor. 130K miles, its tough to put a $100 part on knowing I will only have the truck another 20 or 30K. I think Im gonna do the resistor, then do the repair when its not 105* outside. Just wanted to verify I was looking at the correct wires to clip. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i245/FrontyOwner/truck/DSC00757.jpg its a two megapixel pic so I didn't want to insert the picture
While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
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nissanclay |
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Yup, it should be the bottom wire on that side of the clip, closest to the intake. The color of the wire is yellow.
Without ME its just AWSO
homepage.mac.com/nissanclay |
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Mathster |
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ok, It looks like the two wires to connect to are on the front side of the plug.
For now, its getting a resistor. anyone got a part number on the replacement wiring harness used. I dont want to have to disassemble a salvage yard truck to get it, but I dont want to leave the resistor as a fix. Its a patch to get the fun factor back until it cools off enough to work on my truck. Its 9:30 and the outside temperature is 95* at 67% humidity and mornings aren't much better |
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Mathster |
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I done the resistor mod this morning.
I only had the battery disconnected for about 10 minutes so I dont know if it fully reset or not. I wouldn't define it as "MAJOR" power, but it does pull thru the 2000 to 3000 rpm range alot smoother and has a smoother transition into the 3000 rpm range. the truck used to feel like it was struggling in that range then like it got a kick about 3000 RPMs where it promptly shifted and put me back in the 2K range. I had 21.9 miles out of this tank before the mod. Average fuel mileage for the previous 5 tanks of fuel was 18.670 mpg. I will post next time I get fuel how the mileage changed. assuming I can stay off the fun peddle.
While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
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tapper2x |
--- UPDATED --- | ||
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need to add my 2 cents also on this post.
2002 Solar Yellow, CC, SC, 4x4 After having a heart attack with the dealer quote ($1450) and leaving $95 dollars of my hard earned money I knew there had to be a better way. I started messing around, (trying) to measure resistance, voltage and didn't have any luck getting any real conclusive answers other than I was throwing the P0328 code. It would blow the code, hot, I could baby it until I jumped on it then it would blow. CRAP !!!! So after looking at the engine for a while, I reviewed the troubleshooting from the factory CD I purchased on EBAY. One step says to check the ground. The ground is on the SC and it looked fine. Well....for giggles I got a 10mm socket, unscrewed the bolt, moved the position of the wires to a slightly different angle and re-tighened. HOLY COW it worked *** only intermittently ***. I drove the truck around the block, watched the SES light pop for a fraction of a second (it reset the code) *** Hey idiot, that was the washer fluid light that flashed, not the SES light **** and walla, I have a truck that will burn rubber like it should have for the past 6 years I have owned it. I was surprised to find the code will blow without showing the SES and its probably been showing that same code ever since I bought the darn thing. I must say, I got ***SEMI*** lucky with this one, but its a quick check that should be performed before you got to the trouble of a relocation or a resistor fix, maybe you will get luck too. I have compiled a word document with the best information that I copied from the various places on the internet and will be willing to email it to anyone interested. I did not post here because I cannot quote all the sources the information came from and don't want to disrespect any moderators. I have a brand new love for my Nissan, and this sensor problem is common in the N/A version too, but does not require a fix since my research shows it does not affect N/A performance in a noticeable fashion. Since I have saved myself a bunch of money, i'm getting a gauge pod, boost gauge, likely oil pressure for the pod, and possibly slotted/drilled rotors, and a pulley mod....Thanks for the great info on this board....Eric S. **** UPDATE **** The code seems NOT to blow when the truck is cold I don't get reduced performance. It seems once I put the A/C on it blows the code and goes into failsafe mode. If the truck is run, then parked and started, it goes into failsafe mode. It has also been pointed out, my assumption of not affecting the performace of the N/A is not correct, don't know since mine is the S/C. When the code does not blow it runs like an animal. I will continue to try to isolate the problem, double check the timing and probably go over the spark plug wires again, thanks to a later post....Cheers, ESS.
2002 SC CC LB Solar Yellow, RF, Orange Thingy
Charlotte, NC
Last Edited By: tapper2x
09/09/08 10:01 AM.
Edited 2 times.
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Mathster |
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tapper2x wrote: Wanna bet its not noticeable on a N/A? I started getting V8 gas mileage with carburated 4 cylinder performance. My truck got to the point it wouldn't spin a tire on wet grass. After the resistor mod, the performance has slowly come back. I have been seeing steady gains over the last couple tanks (17.9 to 19.5) and thats while driving it like I used to.
While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
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FiresEdge |
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I didn't get the code until after I changed my spark plugs and wires...
Ok... Great thread. I understand everything posted but... Maybe I'm just a retard (which if you knew me, you'd probably agree); I have a 04, SVE, KC. Now I understand that the pictures posted on the first page were on a NA Frontier... ...Where am I (supercharged) suppose to put the new/relocated Knock sensor... I have the new harness and the new sensor... I know how and where to put the harness...but what about the sensor? Thanks so much. -Scott |
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Mathster |
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FiresEdge wrote:the sensor can be mounted just about anywhere it has a rigid connection to the engine block. this can be under a bolt holding the intake manifold to the supercharger or under a bolt holding the super charger on. you may be able to get away with a factory style bracket or you may have to fabricate your own. I was thinking someone posted pictures of a SC truck. they may have pictures of their mounting solution.
While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
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FiresEdge |
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Mathster,
Thank you. I appreciate the info. That helps alot... tried searching for pics... Any Idea as to where they be located or maybe a title for the pics I would be searching for? Thanks again. -Scott. |
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Mathster |
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it was adelphia83's post I was thinking about with all the "X"s.
I will look thru OCDbrian's photo gallery to see if he has a good picture of his engine. (altho, yours wont be as clean)
While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
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Mathster |
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http://www.pbase.com/cleanmaxx_brian/image/15992794
that should be a shot of brians engine bay with his stock super charger, you can see a row of bolt along the right (passenger) side of the super charger. that one in the front is easy to get to, pull it and put your bracket under the head of the bolt. an knock or any noise will travel all thru any and every component that is rigidly mounted to the source.
While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
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FiresEdge |
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Thank you Soooo Much! It'll be done this weekend...
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Mathster |
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FiresEdge wrote: n/p I carry tow straps and tools for the same reason I lurk here every evening...looking for someone to help.
While you didn't realize it, the National Anthem does end with "Gentlemen Start Your Engines!"
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bl1234 |
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FYI, http://www.rockauto.com has genuine Nissan '99 Maxima knock sensors for
$98.79+shipping. They also have genuine Nippon oil filters for $3.02+shipping.
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asyluminc |
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Does anyone with the 'false knock' problem have any other issues? I am experiencing a rough idle - by rough I mean with the truck running , in drive,
and foot on the brake. You can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. The truck has a new supercharger, 2.3 pulley, new plugs (NGK double plat - heat
range 7) and the nismo stainless exhaust. I purchased an ebay knock sensor for the relocate and it works just like the $140 sensor from nissan. When the
knock code (p0328) is triggered I also get a -40 deg code for engine temp. Anybody else look at the freeze frame data when they get the code?
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