Okay its long.....I guess I had alot of time today
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I know some of you have already figured out how to fix the squeaks coming from the front of the fronty, but for those that haven't I'll do a short write-up of what I found yesterday.
I'll post pics later, but the front bumper assembly is made up of two metal halves. Behind the front plastic fascia, there is a lower metal bumper frame and an upper one. Some truck have the clearance between the lower and upper frames very close. When going around a corner or over a bumpy road, the frame will slightly flex, causing the two halves to rub. Sometimes the two halves are soo close, the upper half gets "hung up" an the lower half, loading up with stress until it reaches a point where it "pops"...resulting in a load clank....that I thought was originally coming from the suspension.
drivers side rubbing bumper
passenger side rubbing bumper
Lower bumper frame bolts (only drivers side shown)
Well here's the simple fix:
Look under the front of the truck and see where the plastic fascia connects to the lower metal bumper assembly. There are two 17mm bolts on each side connected to the crumple-zone bumper. Loosen up the two bolts on one side first, and then pull the lower bumper assembly down a little bit - not much force needed....just an easy pull until you see the frame drop maybe a couple mm. re-tighten the bolts with about 50-60ft-lbs. Do the same to the other side. Go for a quite drive
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Also, here are the normal "noise" fixes, detailed below for those who want to fix things, but can't figure out where to look:
New(1/4/09): 1a. Pop/Clank when turning right: When making right turns, my truck used to have a metal pop sound that I could never figure out. Then one day I lifted the truck to check my steering because I thought i felt some extra play. The right front wheel actually had some looseness to it (shaking it up and down) so I re-tightened my pre-load on the wheel bearing to nissan spec (having the two prong bearing locknut tool makes this a "no guess" process). Now no more play....and no more clanking noise when making right turns.
1. Front cross-member bolts improperly torqued (85-105 ft-lbs. 4 total, right behind the front sway bar...if so equipped)
2. Worn steering stops (2 on each side)
3. Sway bar endlink bushings/nuts (some have noticed their bushings completely gone, or the top nut missing. I noticed my bushing was lopsided and worn....resulting in extra play and causing the front to clank when I go around a corner.
4. Transmission heat shield buzz (I think the owner of a 4banger found this prob. I never personally experienced it)
5a. Cabin noise (changed from roof rumble) (drop the headliner and put some dynamat material on the roof. If you're cheap, just cover the rear half of the roof up to the cross bar with the dome light....cover the joint between the roof and the cross bar as well.
5b. You minus well cover the back of the cab -most effective - and floor and rear seat area also if you want to get rid of most of the road noise....including the issue (When raining or roads are wet) where there is a static sound from passenger side behind the back seats on CC SBs is the water hitting the protective shield around the gas filler neck. (-steve0616)
6. Seat belt rattle (the belts vibrate with the wind when the windows are down and the clips knock against the plastic panels......do the belt retainer mod - sorry, I forgot who originated it)
And some other noises I have noticed:
7. Crew cab roof rack squeak (sometimes the screws holding the roof rack on are a little loose...allowing the rack mounts to rub on the roof and squeak like crazy on a windy day)
8. Glove box (we all know for some reason or other that none of our glove boxes are all that straight. When closed, the lower right corner near the hinge (inner side ot the glove box) is really close to the inner lip of the passenger side lower panel. When going over bumps it rubs and squeaks, but if you get some thin sticker backed felt from the local walmart, cut a strip and place it in the jamb - or joint between the hinge and lower panel....noise goes away.
9. vibrating gas pedal (My pedal was vibrating really bad one day and I thought it had something to do with my engine. but when I looked down and the gas pedal spring loaded mount, I noticed the two screws holding it on were really loose. tightened them up and now all is well.
gas pedal mount
10. Vibrating feeling in the pedal/vehicle at a certain high rpm (this doesn't cover the cases where the vibration is due to droning of a muffler, wheel/tire imbalance, or mis-alignment...but I noticed that my vehicle had a wierd vibration/buzz feeling around 4k rpm. I looked at my engine and noticed that the point between my FIPK filter and the MAF was rubbing against the side of the heat shield. The electrical connector was rubbing as well - made a nice shiny spot. I loosen up the connections and spaced things out a little farther....also rotated the MAF on the joint a lil to move the connector out of the way. tightened everything back up and things are better....might still have to re-visit though since the clearance still seems a bit tight for the amount the engine can move during hard acceleration/revving engine.)
Well, hope this helps most brothers and sisters here
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I know some of you have already figured out how to fix the squeaks coming from the front of the fronty, but for those that haven't I'll do a short write-up of what I found yesterday.
I'll post pics later, but the front bumper assembly is made up of two metal halves. Behind the front plastic fascia, there is a lower metal bumper frame and an upper one. Some truck have the clearance between the lower and upper frames very close. When going around a corner or over a bumpy road, the frame will slightly flex, causing the two halves to rub. Sometimes the two halves are soo close, the upper half gets "hung up" an the lower half, loading up with stress until it reaches a point where it "pops"...resulting in a load clank....that I thought was originally coming from the suspension.
drivers side rubbing bumper
passenger side rubbing bumper
Lower bumper frame bolts (only drivers side shown)
Well here's the simple fix:
Look under the front of the truck and see where the plastic fascia connects to the lower metal bumper assembly. There are two 17mm bolts on each side connected to the crumple-zone bumper. Loosen up the two bolts on one side first, and then pull the lower bumper assembly down a little bit - not much force needed....just an easy pull until you see the frame drop maybe a couple mm. re-tighten the bolts with about 50-60ft-lbs. Do the same to the other side. Go for a quite drive
Also, here are the normal "noise" fixes, detailed below for those who want to fix things, but can't figure out where to look:
New(1/4/09): 1a. Pop/Clank when turning right: When making right turns, my truck used to have a metal pop sound that I could never figure out. Then one day I lifted the truck to check my steering because I thought i felt some extra play. The right front wheel actually had some looseness to it (shaking it up and down) so I re-tightened my pre-load on the wheel bearing to nissan spec (having the two prong bearing locknut tool makes this a "no guess" process). Now no more play....and no more clanking noise when making right turns.
1. Front cross-member bolts improperly torqued (85-105 ft-lbs. 4 total, right behind the front sway bar...if so equipped)
2. Worn steering stops (2 on each side)
3. Sway bar endlink bushings/nuts (some have noticed their bushings completely gone, or the top nut missing. I noticed my bushing was lopsided and worn....resulting in extra play and causing the front to clank when I go around a corner.
4. Transmission heat shield buzz (I think the owner of a 4banger found this prob. I never personally experienced it)
5a. Cabin noise (changed from roof rumble) (drop the headliner and put some dynamat material on the roof. If you're cheap, just cover the rear half of the roof up to the cross bar with the dome light....cover the joint between the roof and the cross bar as well.
5b. You minus well cover the back of the cab -most effective - and floor and rear seat area also if you want to get rid of most of the road noise....including the issue (When raining or roads are wet) where there is a static sound from passenger side behind the back seats on CC SBs is the water hitting the protective shield around the gas filler neck. (-steve0616)
6. Seat belt rattle (the belts vibrate with the wind when the windows are down and the clips knock against the plastic panels......do the belt retainer mod - sorry, I forgot who originated it)
And some other noises I have noticed:
7. Crew cab roof rack squeak (sometimes the screws holding the roof rack on are a little loose...allowing the rack mounts to rub on the roof and squeak like crazy on a windy day)
8. Glove box (we all know for some reason or other that none of our glove boxes are all that straight. When closed, the lower right corner near the hinge (inner side ot the glove box) is really close to the inner lip of the passenger side lower panel. When going over bumps it rubs and squeaks, but if you get some thin sticker backed felt from the local walmart, cut a strip and place it in the jamb - or joint between the hinge and lower panel....noise goes away.
9. vibrating gas pedal (My pedal was vibrating really bad one day and I thought it had something to do with my engine. but when I looked down and the gas pedal spring loaded mount, I noticed the two screws holding it on were really loose. tightened them up and now all is well.
gas pedal mount
10. Vibrating feeling in the pedal/vehicle at a certain high rpm (this doesn't cover the cases where the vibration is due to droning of a muffler, wheel/tire imbalance, or mis-alignment...but I noticed that my vehicle had a wierd vibration/buzz feeling around 4k rpm. I looked at my engine and noticed that the point between my FIPK filter and the MAF was rubbing against the side of the heat shield. The electrical connector was rubbing as well - made a nice shiny spot. I loosen up the connections and spaced things out a little farther....also rotated the MAF on the joint a lil to move the connector out of the way. tightened everything back up and things are better....might still have to re-visit though since the clearance still seems a bit tight for the amount the engine can move during hard acceleration/revving engine.)
Well, hope this helps most brothers and sisters here

